I often get inspired by our customers' questions. Common knowledge sometimes don't seem so common and its largely the fault of commercialisation. You see, I think it is irresponsible of a business to advertise and advocate products claiming certain benefits and no effort in consumer education. You would think that leaflet of product information in small print tells you something, but nope. So what I am going to share with you about the much loved rosehip oil is going to surprise or disturb some of you.

1. Ok, let's get this straight. Rosehip oil has nothing to do with rose one way or another.
 
2. Most commercial rosehip oil (Rosa moschata / Rosa rubiginosa) now grows in Chile, Argentina and even New Zealand and Australia, while Rosa canina, grows in Europe and South Africa. The colour of pure rosehip oil is either golden amber or a blood orange, depending where it is grown. Genuine rosehip oil can get more expensive than argan oil as extraction is highly labour intensive or CO2 extracted, thus not as straight forward as other seed and vegetable oils. Small crop, small yield, go figure.
 
3. Up to 95% of organic rosehip oil is certified organic, but not entirely pure or organically grown. Before you even ponder, I would not get overly excited with a $25 organic rosehip oil that's thick, gooey and "orangey". Genuine rosehip oil is fluid, non-sticky and undiluted.

2. Rosehip oil is the only vegetable oil containing natural tretinoin, more commonly known as retinoic acid or Vitamin A. The typical shelf life of pure rosehip oil is approximately 4-6 months. So why does the rosehip oil you bought or displayed in drug store keeps longer? Most commercial manufacturers have added supercritical carbon dioxide or a substantial amount of synthetic (man-made) Vitamin E to as preservative, which explains why some rosehip oil are more "orangey" than others. As a result, the shelf life of the rosehip oil you are buying or browsing in stores has been extended to 2 years after production and bottling.

3. If you've managed to get a good quality of rosehip oil, it's going to be a keeper, simply because of its wondrous skin benefits. Rosehip is a powerful anti-oxidant that treats oily skin, sensitive skin, fine lines and is considered to be one of the best anti-wrinkle oils available in the marketplace today. It is an excellent source of omega 3 and 6, that are involved in cellular renewal, tissue regeneration and balancing skin with large pores.

4. The smell of rosehip oil is strong and unique - earthy if you ask me. It's pleasant or unpleasant depending on how you like it. Majority of the rosehip oil available commercially are deodorised or refined with chemical solvents.
 
5. One important thing all these big brands forgotten to tell you -you are NOT supposed to use rosehip oil continuously for more than 2 weeks, especially if you have dry or sensitive skin. The natural retinoid acid in rosehip oil can cause dryness, redness and flakiness!
 
Please use your own judgment when someone tells you an oil is 100% pure or there is no negative effect in it. Even your favourite pure essential oil can possess a certain level of toxicity if improperly blended or utilised. And if you are seriously concerned about purity, wouldn't you want to know where it is grown, how it is extracted or produced and what are you really getting?    

June 5 is World Environment Day. It is heartening to see greater efforts in promoting and educating the public of the need to preserve wildlife, eco-systems and the bio-diversity of the Earth.
 
Other than illegal trade in wildlife products for precious ivory and rhino horn, the beauty and personal care industry is also largely responsible for causing toxic effects and damages to the environment and its inhabitants. Think about how palm oil causes air pollution and the genocide of orangutans, destruction of wild orchids and rosewood timber and as many as 700 marine species are currently in danger of extinction due to plastic pollution. I'm not even going to get started on how "branded" Shea butter is exploiting human rights in Africa. It is just so tragic!
 
You might protest right now - "but the products I'm using are Fairtrade and anti-animal cruelty!" Well, those only serve 2 purposes - marketing poverty to benefit the rich and protection of cute little animals, not the environment in general.
 
Sadly, it does not all sound very rosy right now. The production of "hope in a bottle or jar" has caused the earth dearly and here are 3 recent concerns that surround the environmental damages of cosmetics and personal care products.
 
The real cost of "natural"
 
Everyone is cashing in on "natural". They seem to think by adding a few drops of essential oil or 5% of botanical ingredients in their products; it is now healthier for use. Have you considered that as more companies are sourcing natural products, the demand for such ingredients have increased and invariably driven cost up? Demand is a good thing; but big companies will want these products cheap and fast, which meant exploitation of farming, production ethics, wages and the lands that flora and fauna survive on.
 
Mining is another problem unknown to many. Minerals are becoming popular ingredients in natural cosmetics. Most consumers are only interested in the effectiveness of the products. But minerals essentially are... yes, extracted by mining companies. When done irresponsibly, the mining of minerals and oil for petroleum based products can disrupt eco-systems and deplete non-renewable natural resources.
 
Thus, the benefits of buying 100% natural products from small businesses become obvious - there is no damage to your body, health and our environment.
 
The truth about packaging
 
The boxes and containers of what we use also have damaging effects to the environment. The more businesses pack, the more there is to toss and how do you think waste gets eliminated? Containers and packaging that are not recyclable or biodegradable consume more energy and landfills to break them down. One of the most common packaging wastes is cheap plastic. The hazard that this plastic causes to the environment is very serious and improper handling of plastic waste emits toxic gases into the air.

We learn something new from our customers everyday. Earlier this afternoon, I heard from a customer that our Spearmint Eucalyptus soap works for her young nephew. Yes, you read rightly - soap. I've never hesitated to recommend our Spearmint Eucalyptus soap to customers with body acne because it has proven to work again and again, and seeing them come back for another bar of soap just goes to prove that point.
 
We've also received numerous enquiries in the last 3 weeks on troubled skin and the best cleanser to use. I thought I would share a little known fact that you can really clean your face with soap and water for sensitive and acne-proned skin. Less is more, no rocket science. The determinant is using the right kind of soap. And no, you cannot scrub your acne away despite advertising claims.
 
1. Big white foam and rich lather is actually damaging to sensitive and acne skin.
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Many of you think unless a soap lathers and produces a lot of suds, it is not cleansing or effective. The opposite is exactly what sensitive and acne skin need. The problem with washing your skin with bubbly soap or even other types of rich foaming cleanser lies in your pores. Foam narrows pores by drying them out and tightening the skin around them. Small bubbles do not force soap into pores and rinse off easily. Generally speaking, stay away from soap with synthetic fragrance, colour and Tetrasodium EDTA.

2. Choosing the right soap

100% natural is without doubt the best choice. After you have washed your face, you should not feel any tightness around your skin or the following effects:

• Flakiness - Soap that contain alcohol or foaming agents often cause this.

• Redness or irritation - You have broken down your skin natural barrier!!

• Break out or rash - You are not allergic to soap. I repeat, this is not an allergy to soap. Your skin is reacting to certain ingredients in the soap such as a hard oil, foaming agent, synthetic fragrance, floral ingredients and herbal extracts. These are known common irritants to soap users.

 
So there you go, the right soap can make acne, rosacea and light skin damage better. But you have to be very careful with what you clean your face with and also what you put on them thereafter. Chemicals and corticosteroids may treat them faster, but your skin cells grow reliant on them and often than not, they come back worse than before. 

​Last Friday, a customer asked me, "Have you heard of Dr. Bronner castile soap? What's the difference between your soap and Dr. Bronner's and what is castile soap?"
 
What's Castile Soap?
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Castile soap is one of the oldest soaps known in the world. Similar to Savon de Marseille (or the Marseille soap), it is an all-natural, vegan and biodegradable soap famed for its astounding multi-purposes. This is hardly a surprise since hand wash, detergents and fancy cleansers have only been around since the advent of modern manufacturing processes and the surge in petrochemical use.
 
The origin of Castile soap also lies in the geography. It is a region in Spain renowned for its olive oil and authentic castile bar soap was traditionally handmade with just olive oil. Today, liquid and bar soap are made with all types of vegetable oils such as palm, coconut, safflower, hemp, jojoba, olive etc. The term castile is now used loosely, and often include detergents or ingredients that is used to enhance the physical appearance and texture of both liquid and bar soap.

So... What's Great About Pure Castile Soap?

Real castile soap made with olive oil is gentle on the skin and environment because it is free of artificial foaming ingredients, harsh chemicals and deconstructed fatty acids from vegetable oils or fats, parabens and synthetically manufactured anti-bacterial agents .
 
If you'd had previously used or purchased a mass market castile soap, you will notice a mix of vegetable oil and artificial agents used in the ingredient list. Some of you would have experienced dry, tight skin after showering. Sensitive and delicate skin should refrain from using liquid soap that contains hard oils. Each vegetable oil contains a percentage of fats that will not be converted into soap. Commercial soap-makers use oils with higher percentage of converted fats to make soap in order to yield more bubbles and a higher volume of produce.
 
I risk sounding like an old cracked record here - but please peruse your ingredient list carefully wherever you are, and just because a product is organic doesn't mean it's more natural as well. If you would not eat processed food laden with preservatives and flavouring agents, why would you use chemically enhanced products created with the profits-driven-mass-manufacturing-principles on your skin and body?!

This infused oil that I am about to introduce is  different from essential oil, which is extracted by steam distillation and mainly a commercial exercise. A herbal oil infusion consists of herbs and flowers simmered on low heat in a base oil. This adds healing and nourishing properties to your oil. This infusion can be used just as it is or added to your DIY projects and soap.

To make an infused oil, you will need 250g of oil (do not use coconut or cooking oil) to 12 tablespoons of herbs. For example, to treat eczema, I chose 250g of sweet almond oil, 6 tablespoons of calendula and 6 tablespoons of chamomile. Sweet almond oil is known to be especially beneficial for eczema - itchy, dry and inflamed skin. When infused with anti-inflammatory herbs, this oil can be used to heal wounds, burns, scratches, nappy rash, facial broken veins, eczema, chronic ulcers and gum inflammation. 

A double saucepan is ideal for this recipe, but a Pyrex jar over a pan of simmering water will do just as well. My personal preference is a crock pot (slow cooker) - the heat stays consistent and you do not have to worry about burning anything.

(1) Heat the base oil gently until about 60 degree Celsius.
*You may skip this step if you are using a crock pot (slow cooker), just make sure its on low heat.

(2) Add herbs and dried flowers into the oil, making sure that everything is submerged. Leave the oil and herbs over very low heat for at least 1s hour, by which the herbs will have released their beneficial and aromatic properties.
**Depending how how concentrated you want your infusion to be, this simmering process can take anywhere between 30 minutes to 3 hours. 

(3) Strain the oil through a sieve or coffee/tea filter bag. Transfer infusion into a sterilised jar or bottle and leave it to cool. At 40 degree Celsius, your infusion is ready to be used (ahhh... hot oil massage) or you can wait till it has completely cooled off. The shelf-life of your infusion oil will be the same as the base oil you had or purchased.

Your feet takes a pounding everyday (especially in those killer heels), so set aside some time and pamper them this long weekend. 

• Fill a large bucket with hot water.
• Mix 1 tbsp of cold pressed coconut oil with 5 tbsp epsom salt and 3 drops of your favourite essential oil. I would personally recommend spearmint or a fine lavender.
• Add oil and salt mix to the hot water.  Flower petals, dried herbs and citrus peel  optional.
• Now lean back in your favourite chair with a book  or watch some telly while you soak your feet for at least 15 minutes. 

Magnesium in epsom salt is detoxifying and helps you relax, coconut oil softens the skin and eucalyptus is utterly refreshing! After you're done soaking, towel your feet dry and apply a nourishing foot cream or balm. 

Genuine Floral Water do not have the same aroma as the essential oil with which they are produced because the concentrate of molecules are "water-loving" (hence naturally dissolved) instead of "fat-loving". Floral Water also tend to have a relatively short shelf life of up to a year when they are pure and do not contain preservatives. It is therefore pointless to stock up. The best way to use Floral Water is to spray it as a facial mist. If the content turns cloudy, throw it away as bacteria are growing in it.

Most commercial Floral Hydrosols contain preservatives, palm glycerin, acetone (yes, the same stuff in your nail polish remover) and alcohol (even in small amount and you can't smell it). There are also expensive Floral Hydrosols and Face Mist advertised for skin care but made up of entirely water with a little essential oil added to it along with a dispersal agent such as clay, talc or magnesium, then coloured or filtered with chemical solvent for clarity. Artificial fragrances are often in order to create an aroma similar to the essential oil from the same flower or plant. 

It is terribly important to be vigilant and read labels carefully. Always look out for the Latin botanical name, country of origin and presence or absence of preservatives and foreign additives. 

Here are 5 ways to tell if an essential oil is pure. This does not include resins (frankincense, amyris) and absolutes (rose, jasmine, carnation).
 
1.  NO GREASE FEELING ON THE SKIN
Pure essential oil gets absorbed within a minute when applied onto the skin. To test, rub a drop of essential oil between your thumb and index finger, if it leaves a greasy film behind, you know it has been mixed.
 
2. NO STAIN, DISAPPEAR ON A SHEET OF WHITE PAPER
100% pure essential oil are naturally volatile and will evaporate, leaving no greasy stain, no residue.
 
3. DOES NOT DISSOLVE IN WATER
Unless the essential oil has been produced cheaply for cosmetic purposes, pure essential oil will not float on top of water. The liquid in a plastic bottle you are buying for your air purifier is also mixed with chemicals. If you are running an aromatherapy bath, mix your essential oils with Epsom salt or a cup of milk and dispense gradually into running water.
 
4. NO STRANGE ODOUR
The essential oil that you've bought should not smell funky or alcoholic. Ethyl alcohol is very commonly used and often the reason why some of us get a headache with a whiff of fragrance (especially perfume). Essential oil that are diluted (knowingly and unknowingly) with base oil gone rancid will also produce an "off" smell.
 
5. FRAGRANCE OILS ARE NOT ESSENTIAL OILS
When shopping for essential oil, note that fragrance oil, aromatherapy oil, aroma essence and perfume oil are not pure essential oil. They are usually a combination of essential oils and chemicals or entirely chemicals. Be wary of essential oil sold in plastic or clear glass bottles.
 
Ultimately, it is important to use an essential oil that is pure, natural and wholesome. You should not have to play guinea pigs to unethical merchants. Avoid buying essential oils from businesses that do not provide the botanical Latin name (which in the case of lavender, will tell you which part of the plant the oil is distilled from), country of origin or method of extraction. Now that you are suitably informed, are you ready to put your essential oils to the test?