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ART & SCIENCE OF MIXING ESSENTIAL OIL

7/3/2017

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There is a surge in the use and appreciation of essential oils these days. But mixing essential oils is not as easy as it seems. Oil blending is part art and part science. It is crucial to understand the following before you start blending:

1. Chemical properties – this determines the volatility, viscosity and toxicity of the essential oil.

2. Purpose of the blend – Essential oils work harder in a blend. When you mix essential oils correctly, you create a synergistic effect and boost the power of each oil within the blend.  

​3. Sequence – the order which the oil is added and blended also plays a factor in the resulting blend. When you change this sequence, it affects both the properties and fragrance of the resulting blend.

4. Percentage – While there are no rules how you can mix essential oils for home aromatherapy, it is not a simple, straightforward 1 + 1 = 2 equation when you apply it on skin care formulation or body treatment. ​
So perhaps now you can appreciate it is not as easy as it looks, and most businesses selling you essential oils are not equipped with fully qualified staff who understand the source and properties of the oil, nor are they trained in blending. This is why you should purchase oil blends that are professionally made or customised, especially when you are looking to heal the mind and body.

However, here are some general rules to consider when mixing your own essential oil blend.

(i) Lighter and smaller molecules produce thinner oils that are more aromatic. Heavier and larger molecules produce thicker oils that are less aromatic, and take the body a longer time to absorb. So when you blend lighter molecules with heavier molecules, their synergistic effect allows for the lighter molecules to last longer and the heavier molecules to absorb faster!
 
(ii) This is extremely important when blending natural fragrance and this concept has been used by the perfume industry for years. The heavier oils that extend the life of the more aromatic oils are called fixatives. Some of the best known and most popular fixatives are Ylang Ylang, Myrrh, Frankincense and Sandalwood.
 
(iii) The ratio of essential oil to carrier / base oil is not always 1:1 – it depends on the application purpose. If I make a dilution blend for facial application, I would use 15-20 drops of essential oil. For body, I would use 45-60 drops of essential oils to 100ml of base oil(s).
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​Remember, base ingredients such as oils and aloe vera gel should be of a good quality and if organic is available, even better. You don’t want to use an excellent grade of essential oil and mix them with a poor if not average quality of base product.

In the next blog post, I will share a lesser known method in oil blending – the classification method. But for now, I hope these tips help. Happy blending!
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FACE OIL - FAD OR HERE TO STAY?

2/3/2017

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Natural and organic skin care is in vogue. But are you aware that there are as many fads in beauty and health as there are in food.

Baby oil was once upon a time, the most natural and gentle oil – used for everything from baby massage to removing mascara and healing minor burns. Now that they found baby oil contains minerals and by-product of petrochemicals, using it is as reprehensible as smoking.

Vitamin E oil had a run as popular as sunflower oil was snapped up for cooking. Some consumers buy capsules from health food stores that are as high as 400iu and pierce them to apply the content directly on their faces, scars and wrinkles in a bid for miracle results. 
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​​In the late 80s, emu oil was highly sought after and demand is still going strong while the mish-mash Bio Oil that you can buy from Watsons and Guardian pharmacy has gained a cult following after a series of marketing campaigns. At the same time, some of us have been busy dousing everything in avocado and coconut oil.

What about now? Why are some of us still so insistent on applying oil on our face?

FACT - Pure plant oils are the most natural skin care vital for healthy skin cell function. Plant oils have smaller molecular structure than mineral oils and many are akin in design to sebum. And of course, they should be light and non-comedogenic so it does not leave a film on the skin. Often, women fear that oils may aggravate existing high levels of oils in the skin or contribute to impurities and clogged pores, but the opposite is true. Applying a good oil reduces moisture loss. This result in the normalisation of the skin’s sebum production and the skin will thereby be less oily.  
The traditional oils used in good cosmetics are wheat germ oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil and evening primrose oil. It is also not uncommon to see these oils supplanted by the newer, exotic oils such as argan, marula and camellia.

Argan oil is extremely popular at the moment. It closely resembles the lipids in human skin so they work naturally with the skin, not against it. Argan oil is obtained from the argan tree, and we suggest you buy from ethical sources such as those grown in the forest of Morocco under UNESCO protection.
I can’t stress enough that not all oils are created equal so beware of formulations that contain more silicone (dimethicone) and synthetic vitamin E than argan oil. Pure plant oils go rancid within 3-6 months in our tropical climate and can hardly be stored for more than a year, let alone 2 or 3 years including warehouse storage time. If you are buying a blend of oils, look out for the order of the ingredient list and check the texture to ensure you are getting what you are really looking and paying for.

DEBATE OVER OIL VS CREAM - The majority of water-based cream in the market are not effective at maintaining hydration and contain synthetic fats and emulsifiers that are graded at the same level as detergents. Bacteria also thrive in water so more preservatives are required to stabilise a water-based cream than oils.
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But sure, there are some cosmetic cream out there, some in trend, some not. My sensitive dehydrated skin loves rosehip, argan and sweet almond oil. When I need extra soothing relief, I blend in essential oils of neroli, frankincense and Damask rose. I know some ladies and customers who enjoy similar routine and supplement with a face cream on-and-off – but many others remain sceptical and continue piling chemical-loaded cream on the
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    This blog is intended to provide wholesome information on natural fragrance, botanical skin care and an organic lifestyle  All reasonable care has been taken in the content provided. Please use all guidance + recommendation with caution and not as a guide to self-diagnosis and treatment. We disclaim all responsibility for any liability, personal risk and damage incurred directly or indirectly as a consequence of the use/application of any of the products and content listed.

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