June 5 is World Environment Day. It is heartening to see greater efforts in promoting and educating the public of the need to preserve wildlife, eco-systems and the bio-diversity of the Earth.
 
Other than illegal trade in wildlife products for precious ivory and rhino horn, the beauty and personal care industry is also largely responsible for causing toxic effects and damages to the environment and its inhabitants. Think about how palm oil causes air pollution and the genocide of orangutans, destruction of wild orchids and rosewood timber and as many as 700 marine species are currently in danger of extinction due to plastic pollution. I'm not even going to get started on how "branded" Shea butter is exploiting human rights in Africa. It is just so tragic!
 
You might protest right now - "but the products I'm using are Fairtrade and anti-animal cruelty!" Well, those only serve 2 purposes - marketing poverty to benefit the rich and protection of cute little animals, not the environment in general.
 
Sadly, it does not all sound very rosy right now. The production of "hope in a bottle or jar" has caused the earth dearly and here are 3 recent concerns that surround the environmental damages of cosmetics and personal care products.
 
The real cost of "natural"
 
Everyone is cashing in on "natural". They seem to think by adding a few drops of essential oil or 5% of botanical ingredients in their products; it is now healthier for use. Have you considered that as more companies are sourcing natural products, the demand for such ingredients have increased and invariably driven cost up? Demand is a good thing; but big companies will want these products cheap and fast, which meant exploitation of farming, production ethics, wages and the lands that flora and fauna survive on.
 
Mining is another problem unknown to many. Minerals are becoming popular ingredients in natural cosmetics. Most consumers are only interested in the effectiveness of the products. But minerals essentially are... yes, extracted by mining companies. When done irresponsibly, the mining of minerals and oil for petroleum based products can disrupt eco-systems and deplete non-renewable natural resources.
 
Thus, the benefits of buying 100% natural products from small businesses become obvious - there is no damage to your body, health and our environment.
 
The truth about packaging
 
The boxes and containers of what we use also have damaging effects to the environment. The more businesses pack, the more there is to toss and how do you think waste gets eliminated? Containers and packaging that are not recyclable or biodegradable consume more energy and landfills to break them down. One of the most common packaging wastes is cheap plastic. The hazard that this plastic causes to the environment is very serious and improper handling of plastic waste emits toxic gases into the air.

We learn something new from our customers everyday. Earlier this afternoon, I heard from a customer that our Spearmint Eucalyptus soap works for her young nephew. Yes, you read rightly - soap. I've never hesitated to recommend our Spearmint Eucalyptus soap to customers with body acne because it has proven to work again and again, and seeing them come back for another bar of soap just goes to prove that point.
 
We've also received numerous enquiries in the last 3 weeks on troubled skin and the best cleanser to use. I thought I would share a little known fact that you can really clean your face with soap and water for sensitive and acne-proned skin. Less is more, no rocket science. The determinant is using the right kind of soap. And no, you cannot scrub your acne away despite advertising claims.
 
1. Big white foam and rich lather is actually damaging to sensitive and acne skin.
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Many of you think unless a soap lathers and produces a lot of suds, it is not cleansing or effective. The opposite is exactly what sensitive and acne skin need. The problem with washing your skin with bubbly soap or even other types of rich foaming cleanser lies in your pores. Foam narrows pores by drying them out and tightening the skin around them. Small bubbles do not force soap into pores and rinse off easily. Generally speaking, stay away from soap with synthetic fragrance, colour and Tetrasodium EDTA.

2. Choosing the right soap

100% natural is without doubt the best choice. After you have washed your face, you should not feel any tightness around your skin or the following effects:

• Flakiness - Soap that contain alcohol or foaming agents often cause this.

• Redness or irritation - You have broken down your skin natural barrier!!

• Break out or rash - You are not allergic to soap. I repeat, this is not an allergy to soap. Your skin is reacting to certain ingredients in the soap such as a hard oil, foaming agent, synthetic fragrance, floral ingredients and herbal extracts. These are known common irritants to soap users.

 
So there you go, the right soap can make acne, rosacea and light skin damage better. But you have to be very careful with what you clean your face with and also what you put on them thereafter. Chemicals and corticosteroids may treat them faster, but your skin cells grow reliant on them and often than not, they come back worse than before. 

​Last Friday, a customer asked me, "Have you heard of Dr. Bronner castile soap? What's the difference between your soap and Dr. Bronner's and what is castile soap?"
 
What's Castile Soap?
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Castile soap is one of the oldest soaps known in the world. Similar to Savon de Marseille (or the Marseille soap), it is an all-natural, vegan and biodegradable soap famed for its astounding multi-purposes. This is hardly a surprise since hand wash, detergents and fancy cleansers have only been around since the advent of modern manufacturing processes and the surge in petrochemical use.
 
The origin of Castile soap also lies in the geography. It is a region in Spain renowned for its olive oil and authentic castile bar soap was traditionally handmade with just olive oil. Today, liquid and bar soap are made with all types of vegetable oils such as palm, coconut, safflower, hemp, jojoba, olive etc. The term castile is now used loosely, and often include detergents or ingredients that is used to enhance the physical appearance and texture of both liquid and bar soap.

So... What's Great About Pure Castile Soap?

Real castile soap made with olive oil is gentle on the skin and environment because it is free of artificial foaming ingredients, harsh chemicals and deconstructed fatty acids from vegetable oils or fats, parabens and synthetically manufactured anti-bacterial agents .
 
If you'd had previously used or purchased a mass market castile soap, you will notice a mix of vegetable oil and artificial agents used in the ingredient list. Some of you would have experienced dry, tight skin after showering. Sensitive and delicate skin should refrain from using liquid soap that contains hard oils. Each vegetable oil contains a percentage of fats that will not be converted into soap. Commercial soap-makers use oils with higher percentage of converted fats to make soap in order to yield more bubbles and a higher volume of produce.
 
I risk sounding like an old cracked record here - but please peruse your ingredient list carefully wherever you are, and just because a product is organic doesn't mean it's more natural as well. If you would not eat processed food laden with preservatives and flavouring agents, why would you use chemically enhanced products created with the profits-driven-mass-manufacturing-principles on your skin and body?!

This infused oil that I am about to introduce is  different from essential oil, which is extracted by steam distillation and mainly a commercial exercise. A herbal oil infusion consists of herbs and flowers simmered on low heat in a base oil. This adds healing and nourishing properties to your oil. This infusion can be used just as it is or added to your DIY projects and soap.

To make an infused oil, you will need 250g of oil (do not use coconut or cooking oil) to 12 tablespoons of herbs. For example, to treat eczema, I chose 250g of sweet almond oil, 6 tablespoons of calendula and 6 tablespoons of chamomile. Sweet almond oil is known to be especially beneficial for eczema - itchy, dry and inflamed skin. When infused with anti-inflammatory herbs, this oil can be used to heal wounds, burns, scratches, nappy rash, facial broken veins, eczema, chronic ulcers and gum inflammation. 

A double saucepan is ideal for this recipe, but a Pyrex jar over a pan of simmering water will do just as well. My personal preference is a crock pot (slow cooker) - the heat stays consistent and you do not have to worry about burning anything.

(1) Heat the base oil gently until about 60 degree Celsius.
*You may skip this step if you are using a crock pot (slow cooker), just make sure its on low heat.

(2) Add herbs and dried flowers into the oil, making sure that everything is submerged. Leave the oil and herbs over very low heat for at least 1s hour, by which the herbs will have released their beneficial and aromatic properties.
**Depending how how concentrated you want your infusion to be, this simmering process can take anywhere between 30 minutes to 3 hours. 

(3) Strain the oil through a sieve or coffee/tea filter bag. Transfer infusion into a sterilised jar or bottle and leave it to cool. At 40 degree Celsius, your infusion is ready to be used (ahhh... hot oil massage) or you can wait till it has completely cooled off. The shelf-life of your infusion oil will be the same as the base oil you had or purchased.

​I'd received a few emails and messages after the DIY Lip Balm post, encouraging me to post more DIY tips and natural recipes. Here's another one if you are looking to make your own body cream. 

My body cream recipe is a semi-commercial formulation that I’d picked up from cosmetic training in France. It requires a nourishing oil, vegetable and some natural extracts, which are optional if you are planning to keep it simple. You can also use organic oil  to make a truly lush, pampering cream. Remember - Organic does not have to cost a fortune, but not a lot of people seem to realise or appreciate that.
Hopefully when you start to make your own skincare products, you will see the genuine benefits they delivery and why there is no reason to pay a lot of money for commercial cream that contains mainly synthetic ingredients and artificial fragrances to cover those chemical smell.

INGREDIENTS TO MAKE A SINGLE PORTION OF LIP BALM
7.5g vegetable oil - choose from sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, rosehip oil, coconut oil etc
5.25g vegetable butter - cocoa butter, shea butter, avocado butter etc
2.25g beeswax 
2 drops of your preferred essential oil 

To prepare a lip balm, melt the beeswax, vegetable oil and vegetable butter (preferably in a double boiler) and mix them thoroughly. Take the oil mixture off the heat and when it starts to cool and slightly thicken, add the essential oil (around 40 degree Celsius). 

Before adding the essential oil, test the consistency of the lip balm by putting a few drops on a glass that has been left in the freezer for a while. This will allow you to adjust the oil mixture before pouring them into a container or tube of your choice.

Vegetable oil more commonly known as "carrier oils" or "base oils" have been used since time immemorial as beauty products. Every culture, region and even historical period has traditionally used one or the other of these vegetable oils. It was only in the last 5 years that we have begin to rediscover their marvellous effects and multiple uses.
 
The vegetable oils that you use should either be virgin or cold pressed. Filtration and higher temperature extraction could degrade the vegetable oil. It is also preferable to choose a vegetable oil that is farmed organically. Heavy metals and chemicals used such as pesticide tend to  stick to fats.
 
A vegetable oil keeps its beneficial properties for 1-2 years depending on its composition. After this time, it will lose its properties gradually and in some cases, turn rancid. To keep your vegetable oil in best condition, keep it away from heat, light and air.
 
Even though vegetable oils are often used as a "carrier" for active ingredients such as absolute, they contain genuine skin care properties of their own, and penetrate the dermis and epidermis deeper than commercial skin products. In general, they are soothing, softening, toning and restorative for the skin. They protect the skin by reconstructing its protective lipid film, which prevents dehydration while allowing skin to breathe. This film, when neglected suffers from dryness, pollution and other environmental damages.
 
Did you know some vegetable oil contains natural sunscreen as well, though they generally are SPF 5. Remember that the skin is also nourished from inside, so consuming pure, high quality vegetable will help maintain your skin as well.
 
Classic Vegetable Oils to Include in Your Skincare Regime

• Apricot kernel oil - Regenerating, nourishing and contains a natural sunscreen. Very easily absorbed by all skin types without leaving a greasy film.

• Argan oil - Healing, protective, softening and makes the skin and hair more supple. Excellent for troubled skin. High in vitamin E and is rapidly absorbed.

• Avocado oil - Hydrating, protective and toning. This is a very rich and thick oil, thus not recommended for oily skin.

• Hazelnut oil - Purifying, astringent and helps control the production of sebum. Contains vitamin A and E, and is very well absorbed by the skin.

• Jojoba oil - Very good at controlling the production of sebum, calming, softening, anti-inflammatory and contains a natural sunscreen. Ideal for all skin types as the composition is very close to that of the human sebum.

• Olive oil - Soothing, softening and nourishing. The only type of olive oil that has genuine beauty properties are in shades of light green and usually extra virgin. Note however that olive oil is absorbed moderately by the skin.

• Sweet almond oil - Soothing, toning and softening. Excellent for dry, irritated and sensitive skin. Ideal base for massage oil. Penetrates the skin moderately so use sparsely.

 

Argan oil, other known as liquid gold is known to be one of the rarest and most expensive oils in the world. Pure Argan oil is hard to obtain and production is time-consuming, thereby it's high price. Not all Argan Oil sold in the marketplace is pure as many versions, especially "serum" have been diluted or mixed with other solvents and additives.

But it is worthy spending a little extra to buy 100% pure Argan Oil, instead of paying less for something you could easily find the drug store or your kitchen cupboard. 
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Did you know that even if you buy Argan Oil in Morocco, it is not a guarantee that the oil is not diluted, unless you know exactly where to buy. We source ours directly from a well-known manufacturer in South West Morocco and it is certified with ECOCERT (France) and the Organic Farmers & Growers (UK).

With the rising popularity of Argan Oil, there are so many brands to choose from. Unfortunately, there are too many that is not worth your money. So how you go about verifying an authentic Argan Oil?

1.  Ingredient List
Look for Argan Oil that has only one ingredient: 100% Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil.  No preservatives, no fragrance, no paraben and not even water. Just pure, cold pressed organic Argan Oil. Cosmetic research have shown that when you combine Argan Oil with other ingredients you actually DEGRADE the beneficial effects.

2. Packaging
Do not buy Argan Oil sold in clear or plastic bottles. Light breaks down the oil’s best properties and dark tinted glass is the only way to store this precious oil. 

3. Price
Argan Oil is difficult to produce, labour tedious and can't possibly be the same price as any other vegetable oil. The price of Argan is also determined by the concentration in the bottle. This is not to say that the most expensive Argan Oil is the best either. Sure, the $19.90 brand looks really good but essentially contain less than 10% of Argan. But you also want to make sure you are paying for pure Argan Oil, not expensive marketing exercises and fancy packaging.

4. The scent
Argan oil has a mild nutty aroma. The scent disappears after few minutes upon contact with your skin, as true Argan Oil absorbs quickly. You should avoid strong smelling or odourless oil. Fragrance is also not necessarily a merit.

5. Texture
Argan Oil should be smooth, non-sticky and not too watery.  It should disappear into your skin quickly and provide a soothing effect upon application.

6.  Color
Pure Argan Oil from Morocco is a golden yellow colour. If the colour is too light, it is most likely diluted or mixed with other oils. Culinary Argan is a golden brown colour and should be avoided. 

Since the dawning of time, rose has been highly revered for its beauty and grace. Its intoxicating aroma is light, up-lifting and soothe tired minds and skin. Its hydrosol has been used in religious rituals, cosmetics, holistic medicine and Ayurveda all over the world. While most of us are familiar with rose oil, do you know that rose water, the hydrosol portion in the distillation of rose petals possesses equal dermatological benefits.

So what is rose water? Simply put, it is the by-product of the production of rose oil for use in perfumery and aromatherapy. It contains a small amount of essential oil that is still left on the distilled rose petals, hence its calming and restorative properties.

It is essential that you choose and use a 100% pure rose water as mass market versions are flavoured water made with a combination of chemicals, colour and preservatives. 

Skin Care Benefits 
Pure rose water truly hydrates the skin permanently and protects it from dirt, oil, irritation and environmental pollutants. Due to its antiseptic properties, rose water is also used in the healing and treatment of skin infections such as dermatitis, inflammation and eczema. You can also apply it on sunburn and insect bites. 

And as mentioned in an earlier post, rose water helps to soothe dark eye circles caused as a result of eye fatigue or poor circulation. Soak a cotton pad in rose water and apply on eye lids for 10 minutes as a hydrating eye mask.

Hair Care Benefits
Little known, rose water is also effective in hair care. It nourishes your hair and calms itchy scalp. Rose water can even be used as a natural hair spray to help in hair loss prevention and avoid frizzy hair on a humid day,

When you invest in a bar of natural soap, your overall health and well being will benefit as well since more than 60% of anything we put on our skin is absorbed into the body. But with a wide array of body cleansing products in the market, how does a simple bar of natural soap competes with the fancier perfumed body wash and shower gel? Essentially, all body cleansing products, natural or synthetic, have the same objectives to remove dirt, perspiration, bacteria and unfortunately some if not all of your natural body oil as well. This dries your skin out and result in a vicious cycle where the common solution is to apply moisturiser after shower or to look for a body cleanser that is specifically moisturising, where the additives help to replenish the oil first removed during the cleansing process.  

Unless your body cleanser is of a natural or pure botanical source, chances are it is packed with 20 to 30 man-made chemicals, including fragrance. In order to remain thick, coloured and perfumed, a typical shower wash/gel must contain at least 20 chemicals - a mixture of synthetic and a small amount derived from plants. It will also contain detergents, a blend of aroma, salt for thickening, glycerin and preservatives. Most of the plant extracts used have very little practical purposes and are just for clever marketing so the product can have fancy names and tag lines. 

Glycerin is a natural occurring byproduct in the process of soap making. It is removed during commercial manufacturing in order to produce a harder, longer lasting bar of soap and subsequently resell as a separate ingredient in the cosmetics industry. Glycerin is however retained in handmade soap (with the exception of Melt & Pour) and this results in a softer, more emollient bar of soap that keeps your body natural oil and moisture level in check.

While we are on the topic of glycerin, it helps to know that due to the high content of this super moisturising liquid, natural soap tends to dissolve quicker when in constant contact with water and produces a layer of gel after use.  For this reason, dry your natural soap out between use and do not leave it sitting in a damp shower or a pool of water. If you use soap everyday, consider 2 or 3 bars of your favourites and rotate them every second day.  And there, you now have a luxury bath spa.