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HOW TO TELL IF AN ESSENTIAL OIL IS PURE

15/3/2016

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​Do you know the purity and quality of the essential oils you are buying? Did you know that essential oils that have been mishandled, distilled from poor crops, oxidised or even diluted with chemical solvents are not considered therapeutic.
 
While the quality of essential oils vary widely depending on source, climate and extraction process, the oil is only as effective and beneficial as its ingredients. There are some absolutes and resins that must however be diluted with a base / carrier oil for dosage safety purposes. This will not change the efficiency of the essential oil. For example, rose absolute is always diluted (1% to 5%) with jojoba oil in skin care products, as it is extremely strong and expensive (remember, 700kg of rose petals makes 1kg of rose essence). 
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Here are 5 ways to tell if an essential oil is pure. This does not include resins (frankincense, amyris) and absolutes (rose, jasmine, carnation).
 
1.  NO GREASE FEELING ON THE SKIN
Pure essential oil gets absorbed within a minute when applied onto the skin. To test, rub a drop of essential oil between your thumb and index finger, if it leaves a greasy film behind, you know it has been mixed.
 
2. NO STAIN, DISAPPEAR ON A SHEET OF WHITE PAPER

100% pure essential oil are naturally volatile and will evaporate, leaving no greasy stain, no residue.
 
3. DOES NOT DISSOLVE IN WATER
Unless the essential oil has been produced cheaply for cosmetic purposes, pure essential oil will not float on top of water. The liquid in a plastic bottle you are buying for your air purifier is also mixed with chemicals. If you are running an aromatherapy bath, mix your essential oils with Epsom salt or a cup of milk and dispense gradually into running water.
 
4. NO STRANGE ODOUR
The essential oil that you've bought should not smell funky or alcoholic. Ethyl alcohol is very commonly used and often the reason why some of us get a headache with a whiff of fragrance (especially perfume). Essential oil that are diluted (knowingly and unknowingly) with base oil gone rancid will also produce an "off" smell.
 
5. FRAGRANCE OILS ARE NOT ESSENTIAL OILS
When shopping for essential oil, note that fragrance oil, aromatherapy oil, aroma essence and perfume oil are not pure essential oil. They are usually a combination of essential oils and chemicals or entirely chemicals. Be wary of essential oil sold in plastic or clear glass bottles.
 
Ultimately, it is important to use an essential oil that is pure, natural and wholesome. You should not have to play guinea pigs to unethical merchants. Avoid buying essential oils from businesses that do not provide the botanical Latin name (which in the case of lavender, will tell you which part of the plant the oil is distilled from), country of origin or method of extraction. Now that you are suitably informed, are you ready to put your essential oils to the test?
 
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ROSE GERANIUM FOR FEMALE HEALTH

25/11/2015

 
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Rose Geranium is truly a feminine scent - strong and floral, highly reminiscent of roses. Unknown to many, rose geranium is one of the few essential oils, besides Angelica Root (当归 / dong kwai) that has an affinity for the female reproductive system and hormone regulation. In short, rose geranium is compulsory for for female health and skinare, and here's 5 very good reasons why.
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1.  Rose geranium oil stimulates the lymphatic system and acts as a diuretic to help correct and balance the elimination of water and waste in our bodies. It's detoxifying effect helps keep your immune system in good shape and condition.

2.  When inhaled or used on the body, rose geranium is effective at addressing PMS symptons like abdominal cramps, sore breasts andother menopausal symptons.

3.  The pharmaceutical industry wouldn't want you to know this, but rose geranium is remarkably effective against yeast infection and other fungi without affecting bacterial flora. If used at the first sign of an yeast infection, it will knock the nasty bits out. Just remember to dilute it (1:10) before applying it in case your skin is sensitive.

4.  Rose geranium oil is anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and detoxifying. It balances all skin types and is very effective at controlling acne. It does not matter if your skin is dry or oily, rose geranium balances the skin’s production of sebum according your needs. It’ is also regenerative at the cellular level and helps give a radiant glow.

5.  Rose geranium oil relieves anxiety and mood swings. In aromatherapy science, rose geranium is highly ranked for easing tension, anxiety and irritability. The ester content of rose geranium gives it a soothing effect like lavender, which makes it an excellent nerve tonic.


This Christmas, we are delighted to bring all customers the following Rose Geranium products -- Pure essential oil ($23)  /  Organic body wash + body lotion gift set ($30)  /  Organic body & massage oil ($55)  /  Premium soy candle ($28)

FLORAL SUMMER - GRASSE DE JASMIN

1/10/2015

 
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Jasmin is in full bloom this summer! One of the most iconic flower in perfumery and a symbolic flower in Southern France, summer's all about flowers and celebrations. The annual La Fête du Jasmin marks the commencement of the jasmin harvest and is celebrated in street style in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur since August 1946. This major festival takes place over 2 days in the town centre of Grasse and attracts both locals and tourists from all over the world, where one will see and smell the finest jasmine in the world, in this part of France, this time of the year.

Mysterious, opulent and so ever elegant, jasmine is indisputably the king of flowers. But unknown to many, jasmin de Grasse is a very special species that is harvested at midnight.This precious flower has been the centre of French perfume industry for centuries and was first cultivated in Provence back in 1548. The flower played a vital role in the evolution of European perfume and its rich floral notes are bottled in some of the world's finest and most treasured perfume. Unlike their sisters grown widely in Asia and Africa, jasmin de Grasse is more delicate but fresher, fruitier and less animalic.

Stories aside, it takes an acquired taste to appreciate jasmine with all its richness and complexity. Jasmine absolute and oil are not to be used undiluted, often sparingly and usually as a base note even though you can smell it from the middle. We were told in perfumery school that you can't recreate synthetic jasmine unless it's a long complex formula or a blend of other essences to mimic its scent. Hedione is an example of synthetic fragrance that smells vaguely similar to jasmine.

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Looking to test your nose this weekend? Try Chanel N°5 , Serge Lutens A La Nuit, Van Cleef & Arpels First Jasmin de Chine, Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto, Estee Lauder Jasmine White Moss and Poison by Dior, but watch out for the overdose of tuberose in this potion. ​

SHOPPING FOR NATURAL HOME FRAGRANCE

12/8/2015

 
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In a world of exotic perfume and synthetic fragrance, it is important to remember that there are natural options. We need more fresh air in our lives, not artificial air freshener. But sure, there are always times when you want a mood enhancing scent that is not confined to lavender or lemongrass.

Today, around two thirds of modern fragrance is synthetically derived and the remaining fraction naturally sourced. Some prestigious fine fragrance brands can however go up to 50% natural or even higher. But how do you choose?

Here are 4 key questions to ask when shopping for natural home fragrance.
  1. Where can I buy it?
  2. How 'natural' is it?
  3. Are the ingredients sustainable?
  4. Does it smell any good?

When you choose to buy natural and organic, there are certain limitations you have to accept. First, forget the big department stores and shopping malls. If you are looking for natural fragrances, you will need to search elsewhere, mostly online or at small boutiques. 

Choice can be limited but this is no bad thing. Shopping beyond the mainstream means you avoid the latest media endorsed, over-hyped brands and products. It is such an easy trap to fall into - up to 95% of the cost of producing a bottle of perfume, diffuser or candle goes into marketing, packaging and advertising. The actual fragrance in the bottle can represent as little as 3% of the total production cost. 

Natural and organic are 2 overused words in the fragrance and cosmetic industry. To avoid all doubt, check the ingredient list. You should find the botanical name or INCI of the ingredients. Organic also does not necessary mean better and is sometimes a product of inefficient farming, thus not sustainable at all.

The Delicate Nature of Natural Fragrance 
If you are used to mass market fragrance, you will find natural fragrance a little mute and earthy. There is no rocket science involved here; essential oils are basically natural extraction of flowers and leaves. These scents tend to be fleeting and softer whereas synthetics are stronger, sharper and more consistent. Do not let your nose fool you. Often the lavender you are expecting to smell is actually linalool, an isolated fragrance ingredient and a potential allergen that breaks down, oxidises and cause allergic reactions.

The other challenge with natural and organic fragrance is its staying power. You do not get the same diffusion as chemically engineered fragrance and the majority of people are looking for a strong fragrance that is consistent and long lasting, usually achieved by formaldehyde in synthetic fragrance.
And if you, like some of our customers, ask why you should buy a natural fragrance over the fancy versions - in my opinion, it is all about lifestyle choice and expectation management. But think again. Do you really want to function daily in a space where the air you breathe has been artificially enhanced ? Perhaps not.

LIVING WITH FRAGRANCES

5/3/2015

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​Up until the modernisation of perfumery in the late 1880s, all perfumes were made from natural plants and animal sources. Synthetic fragrance was subsequently discovered and 95% of commercial products today contain fragrance, otherwise also known as parfum. This can be found in a wide range of FMCG products such as detergent, soap, cream, lotion, sunscreen and candles. No, we are not telling you to stop using them. It is unfortunately inevitable that we are and will continue to be surrounded by chemically created scents. But we believe you should be more informed and aware of what you buying. In most products, fragrances are added to emit a pleasant scent and often than not, used to disguise the offending chemical smell of other ingredients. Can you now try to imagine your favourite face serum or shampoo without the fragrance you were first attracted to? Yes, I thought I would frown a little too!

Unknown outside the industry, fragrance was labeled as the "new second hand smoke" in 2009 by researchers from University of Maryland. What's the problem with fragrance? Not the scent as you might think but rather the synthetic chemicals derived from petroleum, tar and industrial processing. 
“Over the past 50 years, 80-90% of ingredients used to manufacture fragrances have been synthesised from petroleum and some of the commonly found harmful chemicals such as acetone, phenol, toluene, benzyl acetate, and limonene.”
Less than half of the chemicals used worldwide in synthetic fragrances are tested for toxicity. You might be more surprised to learn that some components of the fragrance in your face cream and shower gel are the same as those used in pesticides! And that's not even the main problem! Toxins cause damage to the central nervous system and possible reactions to fragrance include but are not limited to the following:

  1. Respiratory - sinus allergy, asthma, breathlessness and airway dysfunction syndromes.
  2. Neurological - migraine, nausea, dizziness, palpitations, fainting and mental confusion.
  3. Skin rash, irritation and sensitisation.
  4. Tearing and inflammation of eyes.
Do you know that when you use products containing synthetic fragrance, it creates a bubble of toxins that continues to be dispersed for hours and affects everyone nearby? Do you know someone who reacts violently to the point of collapsing when she is surrounded by a heavy cloud of perfume? Do you know a child suffers from asthma triggered by clothing in contact with fragranced softener? Do you have a friend whose dermatitis is a result of fragrance in cosmetics? These are very real examples of how a fragrance may smell wonderful to you but is causes physical grief in others. In fact, parents should be very concerned. There is sufficient research evidence out demonstrating exposure to synthetic fragrances contribute to the development of asthma in children. 

Fresh Air Please!

Sure, fragrance is meant to be pleasurable but we should also adopt a sense of personal awareness when we are wearing them and not impose, directly or indirectly, "second hand smoke" onto others. It will require a huge mentality shift though, since most of us are simply too attached to one's own pleasure and do not feel the need to "lighten up" or give up synthetic fragranced products for alternatives that natural and "friendlier" to oneself, others and the environment. 
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    This blog is intended to provide wholesome information on natural fragrance, sustainable skincare and eco-living. All reasonable care has been taken in the content provided. Please use all guidance and recommendation with care and not as a guide to self-diagnosis and treatment. We disclaim all responsibility for any liability, personal risk and damage incurred directly or indirectly as a consequence of the use/application of any of the products and content listed.

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