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IS ORGANIC SKINCARE REALLY BETTER?

22/10/2015

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A recent trip to Watsons left me a little surprised and concerned. The beauty and skincare section is filled products claiming to be "natural" and in some cases "organic. But a quick glance at the back label of the products say otherwise. So what really constitutes "natural"? It is a word that has been associated rather freely and irresponsibly, without much regulation in the market with perceived notions of eco-friendly, green, botanical and sustainability. 

But like food, "natural" does not mean a lot other than marketing and clever packaging. 

That's when some consumers turn to purer products that have been made with organic ingredients - grown and processed without the use of pesticides, synthetic fertilisers or chemicals. However, the term "organic" has been used rather loosely as well. Not all organic products are created equal and "certified organic" is just minimum standards. The more commonly known United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) is an established certification body that determines standards and award USDA Organic certification. But standards vary from state to state, and in some states, 50% organic is enough to gain official certification for a mere cost of $200.

The irony - each country and certification body has different standard. Many products that are certified USDA Organic will not pass tests in Japan, Europe and Australia where agricultural standards and quality are much higher.

And just for the record, there isn't such thing as non-GMO organic soy wax. Pure non-GMO soy wax cost high enough, can you even imagine how much more work goes into farming and processing organic soy wax and if it sounds too good, too cheap to be true, it probably isn't.

I am not saying USDA organic skincare product is inferior or would not work. I am advising you to choose wisely and make discerning choices. What matters is the purity of the product and what is NOT in it. Genuine organic skincare products typically do not contain parabens, sodium laureth sulphate (SLS), synthetic chemicals, "naturally derived" substsnces, dyes, preservatives, fillers, petroleum-derived ingredients or artificial colours and fancy fragrances.

Skin sensitivities are usually the main reason why sufferers turn to organic skincare. While there is no scientific evidence to support claims that they are heal or are less irritating to the skin, the real allergens are however in preservatives, foaming agents and fragrances. If you have an allergy to any of these, you will know how painful it is.

If you are still reading and looking for a natural solution to your skin and body needs, you should be looking for more concise information of ingredient and sources from the product labels. A concoction of liquid that can be mass produced with a press of a button is not what you need, and you need to manage your expectations a little better because 100% natural skincare takes a while to work, much like TCM.

While I am still trying to resolve the "Cetaphil myth", here are some controversial ingredients you might like to keep away from, other than the obvious Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) and its bestie, SLES.
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  • Artificial fragrances - Used largely to camouflage the smell of synthetic ingredients in skincare and cosmetics. Can cause rash, hormone imbalance and skin to discolour.

  • Formaldehyde, Diethanolamine/Triethanolamine (DEA/TEA)  - Highly irritating on dry, sensitive skin.

En.Vie Aromatique's organic products are made with certified organic ingredients from suppliers in France, UK and Australia. We are not certified organic as a business and can't afford to at the present moment. Think of ISO certification. It is a long, tedious and expensive process and simply beyond small businesses and handcrafters.
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HOW TO BUY PURE ARGAN OIL

15/10/2015

 
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Argan oil, other known as liquid gold is known to be one of the rarest and most expensive oils in the world. Pure Argan oil is hard to obtain and production is time-consuming, thereby it's high price. Not all Argan Oil sold in the marketplace is pure as many versions, especially "serum" have been diluted or mixed with other solvents and additives.

But it is worthy spending a little extra to buy 100% pure Argan Oil, instead of paying less for something you could easily find the drug store or your kitchen cupboard. 
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Did you know that even if you buy Argan Oil in Morocco, it is not a guarantee that the oil is not diluted, unless you know exactly where to buy. We source ours directly from a well-known manufacturer in South West Morocco and it is certified with ECOCERT (France) and the Organic Farmers & Growers (UK).

With the rising popularity of Argan Oil, there are so many brands to choose from. Unfortunately, there are too many that is not worth your money. So how you go about verifying an authentic Argan Oil?

1.  Ingredient List
Look for Argan Oil that has only one ingredient: 100% Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil.  No preservatives, no fragrance, no paraben and not even water. Just pure, cold pressed organic Argan Oil. Cosmetic research have shown that when you combine Argan Oil with other ingredients you actually DEGRADE the beneficial effects.

2. Packaging
Do not buy Argan Oil sold in clear or plastic bottles. Light breaks down the oil’s best properties and dark tinted glass is the only way to store this precious oil. 

3. Price
Argan Oil is difficult to produce, labour tedious and can't possibly be the same price as any other vegetable oil. The price of Argan is also determined by the concentration in the bottle. This is not to say that the most expensive Argan Oil is the best either. Sure, the $19.90 brand looks really good but essentially contain less than 10% of Argan. But you also want to make sure you are paying for pure Argan Oil, not expensive marketing exercises and fancy packaging.

4. The scent
Argan oil has a mild nutty aroma. The scent disappears after few minutes upon contact with your skin, as true Argan Oil absorbs quickly. You should avoid strong smelling or odourless oil. Fragrance is also not necessarily a merit.

5. Texture
Argan Oil should be smooth, non-sticky and not too watery.  It should disappear into your skin quickly and provide a soothing effect upon application.

6.  Color
Pure Argan Oil from Morocco is a golden yellow colour. If the colour is too light, it is most likely diluted or mixed with other oils. Culinary Argan is a golden brown colour and should be avoided. 

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7. Culinary vs Cosmetic
There are two types of Argan Oil in the market - cosmetic grade and culinary grade. To obtain culinary Argan Oil, the nuts are first roasted, which destroy most of the cosmetic rich nutrients. Cosmetic grade is not roasted and hence contains all the essential nutrients required by the skin and hair. Ensure that you are buying virgin or cold pressed Argan.

8. Fair trade
Look for ethically sourced pure Argan grown in the UNESCO protected Argan forest. The money you pay will help the local citizens. Argan Oil plays a vital in supporting local economy. We only sell 100% pure organic Argan Oil produced in Morocco by 22 cooperatives that give local women jobs to feed their children and families.

100% Pure Organic Argan Oil is available from our Carlton City Hotel studio for $45.00 (50ml). Limited stock available, reservation highly recommended.
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FLORAL SUMMER - GRASSE DE JASMIN

1/10/2015

 
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Jasmin is in full bloom this summer! One of the most iconic flower in perfumery and a symbolic flower in Southern France, summer's all about flowers and celebrations. The annual La Fête du Jasmin marks the commencement of the jasmin harvest and is celebrated in street style in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur since August 1946. This major festival takes place over 2 days in the town centre of Grasse and attracts both locals and tourists from all over the world, where one will see and smell the finest jasmine in the world, in this part of France, this time of the year.

Mysterious, opulent and so ever elegant, jasmine is indisputably the king of flowers. But unknown to many, jasmin de Grasse is a very special species that is harvested at midnight.This precious flower has been the centre of French perfume industry for centuries and was first cultivated in Provence back in 1548. The flower played a vital role in the evolution of European perfume and its rich floral notes are bottled in some of the world's finest and most treasured perfume. Unlike their sisters grown widely in Asia and Africa, jasmin de Grasse is more delicate but fresher, fruitier and less animalic.

Stories aside, it takes an acquired taste to appreciate jasmine with all its richness and complexity. Jasmine absolute and oil are not to be used undiluted, often sparingly and usually as a base note even though you can smell it from the middle. We were told in perfumery school that you can't recreate synthetic jasmine unless it's a long complex formula or a blend of other essences to mimic its scent. Hedione is an example of synthetic fragrance that smells vaguely similar to jasmine.

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Looking to test your nose this weekend? Try Chanel N°5 , Serge Lutens A La Nuit, Van Cleef & Arpels First Jasmin de Chine, Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto, Estee Lauder Jasmine White Moss and Poison by Dior, but watch out for the overdose of tuberose in this potion. ​

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    This blog is intended to provide wholesome information on natural fragrance, botanical skin care and an organic lifestyle  All reasonable care has been taken in the content provided. Please use all guidance + recommendation with caution and not as a guide to self-diagnosis and treatment. We disclaim all responsibility for any liability, personal risk and damage incurred directly or indirectly as a consequence of the use/application of any of the products and content listed.

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