There is a surge in the use and appreciation of essential oils these days. But mixing essential oils is not as easy as it seems. Oil blending is part art and part science. It is crucial to understand the following before you start blending:

1. Chemical properties – this determines the volatility, viscosity and toxicity of the essential oil.

2. Purpose of the blend – Essential oils work harder in a blend. When you mix essential oils correctly, you create a synergistic effect and boost the power of each oil within the blend.  

​3. Sequence – the order which the oil is added and blended also plays a factor in the resulting blend. When you change this sequence, it affects both the properties and fragrance of the resulting blend.

4. Percentage – While there are no rules how you can mix essential oils for home aromatherapy, it is not a simple, straightforward 1 + 1 = 2 equation when you apply it on skin care formulation or body treatment. ​

​​In the late 80s, emu oil was highly sought after and demand is still going strong while the mish-mash Bio Oil that you can buy from Watsons and Guardian pharmacy has gained a cult following after a series of marketing campaigns. At the same time, some of us have been busy dousing everything in avocado and coconut oil.

What about now? Why are some of us still so insistent on applying oil on our face?

FACT - Pure plant oils are the most natural skin care vital for healthy skin cell function. Plant oils have smaller molecular structure than mineral oils and many are akin in design to sebum. And of course, they should be light and non-comedogenic so it does not leave a film on the skin. Often, women fear that oils may aggravate existing high levels of oils in the skin or contribute to impurities and clogged pores, but the opposite is true. Applying a good oil reduces moisture loss. This result in the normalisation of the skin’s sebum production and the skin will thereby be less oily.  

The traditional oils used in good cosmetics are wheat germ oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil and evening primrose oil. It is also not uncommon to see these oils supplanted by the newer, exotic oils such as argan, marula and camellia.

Argan oil is extremely popular at the moment. It closely resembles the lipids in human skin so they work naturally with the skin, not against it. Argan oil is obtained from the argan tree, and we suggest you buy from ethical sources such as those grown in the forest of Morocco under UNESCO protection.

I can’t stress enough that not all oils are created equal so beware of formulations that contain more silicone (dimethicone) and synthetic vitamin E than argan oil. Pure plant oils go rancid within 3-6 months in our tropical climate and can hardly be stored for more than a year, let alone 2 or 3 years including warehouse storage time. If you are buying a blend of oils, look out for the order of the ingredient list and check the texture to ensure you are getting what you are really looking and paying for.

DEBATE OVER OIL VS CREAM - The majority of water-based cream in the market are not effective at maintaining hydration and contain synthetic fats and emulsifiers that are graded at the same level as detergents. Bacteria also thrive in water so more preservatives are required to stabilise a water-based cream than oils.
​
But sure, there are some cosmetic cream out there, some in trend, some not. My sensitive dehydrated skin loves rosehip, argan and sweet almond oil. When I need extra soothing relief, I blend in essential oils of neroli, frankincense and Damask rose. I know some ladies and customers who enjoy similar routine and supplement with a face cream on-and-off – but many others remain sceptical and continue piling chemical-loaded cream on the

Like your face, your body will appreciate an exfoliating treatment now and again. This recipe contains ingredients that are coarser than your face scrub because your body skin is thicker and can cope with a little more abrasion. A body scrub should never feel like sandpaper or Chinese “gua sha”. A luxurious homemade body scrub should contain lots of fresh, lovely ingredients to truly pamper your skin.

​Grind / chop the rosemary leaves finely. Put them in a bowl with the sea salt and lemon zest, and mix them together well. Add the olive oil and lemon juice to make a paste. If it is too firm, you may add a little more olive oil. Finally add the lemon essential oil (strength of scent to your preference) and give them a final, thorough mix. Dispense in little 100g glass jars and label or decorate accordingly.

This homemade scrub smells gorgeous, nothing quite like what you buy from the retail stores. It is best used in the shower – dampen your skin and gently massage the scrub in. Rinse off under the shower.

Its 5 weeks to Christmas and we know some of you ladies enjoy DIY gifts. So, we are going to post 1 recipe every week leading up to the big weekend and hopefully you will find something inspiring or else - you know where to find us every Saturday at Chijmes.

Let’s start with Potpourri this week. It’s simple to put together and last for quite a long time. Nope, this is nothing like the potpourri you buy from the stores – bags of dried out bits, unrecognisable wood shavings, leaves and other “botanicals” that the labels claim will transport us to Christmas, a garden party or even an exotic paradise - all at once!

Now, flowers have long been used to scent the home and it was during the 18th century that the potpourri was first created. Potpourri was originally a culinary term meaning a pot of mixed vegetables but it got hijacked and became a pot of fresh mixed fragrance fowers, herbs and spices.
Unlike modern versions, a traditional potpourri always contains roses. A fixative is required to prolong the fragrance and essential oil (please do not use fragrant oil) is used to intensify the scent. The easiest potpourri is a dry mix. Here’s a classic recipe and you will need the following:
 
2 to 3 teaspoons of spice(s) of your choice
25g orris root powder (from the Iris flower)
6 drops of essential oil
1 kg of fresh flower petals of your choice
25g herbs / leaves (sage and dried lavender are very nice!)
1 teaspoon of citrus peel such as grated orange / lemon rind (optional)

(i) To make the potpourri, mix the spices, orris powder and essential oil first. When you add essential oil, make sure to rub the mixture between your fingers and thumb to make sure the oil is evenly distributed.

(ii) In a separate bowl, combine the rest of the ingredients. Add the aromatic spice mixture and mix thoroughly. Store this mixture in airtight container and keep it in a cool, dark cupboard for at least 2-3 weeks. Shake the container occasionally to redistribute the ingredients. After “maturing”, put the potpourri in a decorative bowl or use it to fill organza bags as gifts.

1. Warm 5-10ml of argan oil (depending on hair length)  in a cup of hot water (just off the boil) for 5 minutes. *Do not microwave the oil lest it loses its desirable nutrients.
 
2. Prior to application, test the oil on your hand to prevent burning yourself.
 
3. Section your hair to ensure even distribution. Apply warm activated argan oil directly on your hair strands, avoiding the scalp and comb through.
 
4. Leave the argan oil on your hair for 10-15 minutes, then shampoo your hair as normal and condition it lightly.
 
After drying, your hair should be noticeably softer and flowy. You should also experience less breakage and even have a more prominent sheen. Depending on how bad your split ends are, they are likely to look smoother and less noticeable for a day or two.
 
In the meantime, enjoy your bouncy, healthier hair!

Those of you who are not familiar with the controversy - DEET is a chemical developed in 1944 by the U.S department of agriculture for use as a pesticide on farms, before it was used by the military in the Vietnam war and subsequently civilians. The prevailing theory suggests the DEET "blinds" the senses of insects so that the feeding instinct is not triggered by human beings who produce these chemicals.
 
DEET is sold in sprays and lotions with concentrations up to 100 percent! It is the ingredient that stains your clothing and leaves a yellow film on your skin (in some cases). While DEET is generally deemed safe to use, at higher concentration, DEET becomes unsafe for children, pregnant ladies and those with sensitive skin and respiratory problems. DEET should not be inhaled and even more importantly, DEET should not be applied more than once a day.
 
The most serious concerns with DEET are neurological issues. A Duke University research found that lab animals exposed to the equivalent doses of DEET exposed to human, performed far worse than untreated animals. Children with DEET toxicity reported lethargy, headaches, tremors, involuntary movements and convulsions.
 
Before you reach out for that next bottle of DEET spray or lotion, consider the following natural essential oils / options:

•  Lemon eucalyptus
• Rose geranium
• Peppermint
• Rosemary
• Cloves
• Sage
• Cinnamon

​First of all, citronella is NOT lemongrass. Citronella is an essential oil extracted from several different species of Cymbopogon (lemongrass family). Citronella also refers to a chemical effect between different essential oils - for example if you mix lavender with lemon or bergamot, you get citronella.
 
Although natural, citronella oil needs to be reapplied every 30-60 minutes to be continuously effective. Perhaps the reason citronella does not work for most of us lies in its chemical composition. The 3 primary components of Citronella is citronellol, citronellal, and geraniol. Researchers have found that in most citronella sold in the marketplace, there is only about 10% citronellol and 35% geraniol. In fact, most citronella oil were found to be 95% identical to commercial rose geranium. So go figure!

Beauty companies are labeling products in new creative ways that's leading consumers to believe that products are magic bullets, skin loving, health giving and filled with fantastic ingredients. But often it can mean the complete opposite - more preservatives, more artificial fragrance, more skin sensitivities.
 
Here I have compiled a short list of kin care buzzwords that are out there in the marketplace today. I hope this will help demystify the narrative around natural and organic skin care packaging.

​GMO IS NOT A FAD. Consumers are demanding greater transparency. They want to know what is in what they eat and use - how it is grown and processed. There is a growing awareness and concern about genetically modified organisms and this remains an important issue to consider for anyone who is paying attention to what they buy. Genetic is not a term consumers want to see connected to what they eat, apply and use. There is an rising trend of products being labeled GMO-free or non-GMO, assuming manufacturers and merchants have full knowledge of origins. While genetically modified fresh products are not allowed for sale in Singapore, GM modified plants are still being used in processed food, skin care and scented candles.

"Free from" is a term used to represent products that have been formulated to exclude one or more ingredients beyond carcinogens. These skin care products typically exclude sodium lauryl sulfate and parabens, but are not really chemical or allergens free. "Free from" is a new way of life for many people with severe skin allergies and fragrance sensitivities, and should not be seen as a whim. The growing popularity of plant based skin and hair care has increased consumer awareness, market demand and ironically produced more irresponsible labeling and claims. There remains questions about quality, purity and the botanical profiles of products claiming to be natural one way or another.

​One of the most overly abused words by big brands and local crafters. In the production of food, plants and even skin care products, sustainability means using techniques that protect the environment, public health, human communities and animal welfare. It's a method of production that generates abundance while ensuring the same process can be repeated efficiently and the same products can be enjoyed continuously and affordably! 

These are chemicals which occur naturally in plants that may prevent or slow down cell damage and oxidative stress. Besides the highly famed rosehip oil, beauty companies often harness antioxidants from green tea, red wine, pomegranates, olives and mushroom. Theoretically, antioxidants are wonderful and there is no harm using them. But after application, a very different biological process occurs when skin is exposed to the sun. So unless the product is stored in an aluminium canister or a tinted glass container, there is also no guarantee the antioxidants you've paid big bucks for are not breaking down rapidly upon exposure to light. 

There is no regulation on the use of this term worldwide. A product marketed as natural can contain palm oil, colourants, by-products of petroleum, synthetic fragrance, preservatives and other chemicals used largely for texture enhancement. Stroll down the beauty aisles and you will find rows and rows of natural products with an ingredient list longer than a complicated rice dumpling recipe, and I bet your grandmother can't recognise most of them either.

There is a big difference between "made with organic" and "certified organic". To be certified organic means to grow or manufacture a product free from synthetic pesticides, herbicides, hormones and antibiotics. Plants and seeds must be non-GM and the process must be water efficient and biodiversity friendly. So consider this - organic certification (much like ISO standard) is an expensive, structured and time consuming exercise, so unless the manufacturer is of a reasonable scale, a small business typically cannot afford to be certified organic. It is totally legit to make products with organic ingredients from suppliers who are certified organic. Even though there is no formal rule stopping 3rd parties from using a supplier or distributor's certification (I've seen it on tea bags and rosehip oil), it is still in your best interest to confirm that products are truly certified organic by look out for the certification symbol and institute.

SKIN HEALTH ENEMY (2) - NANOPARTICLES

The rapidly growing field of nanotechnology and its widespread use in cosmetics is a major concern for consumers. Nanoparticles may sure sound like science, but they are very bad for your skin. Nanoparticles cause a normal skin cell growth to break down, resulting in pre-mature wrinkles and deepening of the wrinkles you already have.
 
What's worse, nano's are often found in anti-aging skin care products and majority of sunscreens out in the market. Read labels with care and exercise discretion. There is currently a voluntary ban on the use of nano's in some parts of US, Europe and New Zealand.
 
The irony? Commercial manufacturers know that when ingredients in sunscreens and anti-aging products are converted into nanoparticles, the end-product usually display unique properties that can benefit the skin in ways that larger sized particles cannot. This is also one of the major reasons a total ban is not possible or favourable, and despite health hazards, consumers are unwilling to give up their favourite sunscreen loaded with titanium dioxide.

SKIN HEALTH ENEMY (3) - SYNTHETIC FRAGRANCE
 
Fragrance or Parfum might sound harmless, but what they do are anything but that. Most products labeled fragrance-free do contain a small amount of fragrance - otherwise all you will smell are the icky chemicals, oils and fats used in your lotion and cream.
 
All synthetic fragrances contain Phthalates, a group of endocrine-disrupting chemical toxins. Unfortunately, phthalates have been linked to depression, sleep disorder, weight gain, infertility, cancer and altered immune system. Even food contain phthalates! I can't stress this enough - you are BOTH what you eat and use on your skin and body. The slightest disturbance to your natural hormonal balance affects your mood, sleep, weight, appearance, fertility, energy and anxiety levels. Would you not agree that's a lot at stake?!
 
If you must use a product with fragrance or parfum, make sure that the label states phthalate-free fragrance. That is the only way you can be sure that the synthetic fragrances in your body and skin care products are safer for use. 

And remember - fragrance oil, concentrate and extracts are not natural or pure essential oil, even though merchants claim they are botanical or naturally derived. Synthetic fragrance and perfume are created in a laboratory, not grown on farms. 

Used by the Europeans to treat everything from skin irritations to depression, rose oil is making a comeback. In this beauty age of serums, essence and botanical extracts, there is something relaxing and refreshing about the simplicity of rose.
  
The beauty market is currently saturated with tons of products, most making exaggerated claims. Consumers are getting more informed and health conscious of what they buy and use, so it's no surprise they are starting to shun mass produced skincare products and going back to old fashioned, trusted ingredients that have proven to work.
 
Rose oil is a highly prized ingredient used in cosmetics and skincare, much for its scent and beauty benefits. Rose oil is usually extracted from 2 types of rose - (i) Rosa Damascena otherwise known as Damask Rose, and (ii) Rosa Centifolia. which is sweeter smelling and referred to as cabbage or Moroccan rose. What about Rose Otto? Otto is also commonly used in skincare products and obtained through steam distillation, while Absolute involves a more complicated extraction process and is preferred by perfumers. Regardless of extraction method, rose oil is extremely delicate and expensive. It takes 700 kg of rose petals to produce 1 kg of rose absolute, and because of its potency, only a couple of drops is required for maximum effect.
 
Truly versatile, rose oil retains moisture and boost radiance, which is one of the main reasons why it is often used for all skin types. It is especially popular for sensitive/rosacea skin though, because of its astringent effects on the capillaries to reduce redness.
 
And rose water, as most of you know or are are using by now, is a byproduct of the distillation process of rose oil and contain antiseptic and anti-inflammatory qualities. It is best used without alcohol, preservatives or additives as a skin toner / facial mist or mixed in cleanser and mask for soothing and restorative effects.  
 
Still unsure? One of rose oil’s key ingredients - Farnesol, contains a biological agent that stops bacteria growth and reproduction. In other words, rose oil will also inhibit acne. And for those of you blessed with good skin, spritz on some rose water and you will come up smelling of roses.
​

I often get inspired by our customers' questions. Common knowledge sometimes don't seem so common and its largely the fault of commercialisation. You see, I think it is irresponsible of a business to advertise and advocate products claiming certain benefits and no effort in consumer education. You would think that leaflet of product information in small print tells you something, but nope. So what I am going to share with you about the much loved rosehip oil is going to surprise or disturb some of you.

1. Ok, let's get this straight. Rosehip oil has nothing to do with rose one way or another.
 
2. Most commercial rosehip oil (Rosa moschata / Rosa rubiginosa) now grows in Chile, Argentina and even New Zealand and Australia, while Rosa canina, grows in Europe and South Africa. The colour of pure rosehip oil is either golden amber or a blood orange, depending where it is grown. Genuine rosehip oil can get more expensive than argan oil as extraction is highly labour intensive or CO2 extracted, thus not as straight forward as other seed and vegetable oils. Small crop, small yield, go figure.
 
3. Up to 95% of organic rosehip oil is certified organic, but not entirely pure or organically grown. Before you even ponder, I would not get overly excited with a $25 organic rosehip oil that's thick, gooey and "orangey". Genuine rosehip oil is fluid, non-sticky and undiluted.

2. Rosehip oil is the only vegetable oil containing natural tretinoin, more commonly known as retinoic acid or Vitamin A. The typical shelf life of pure rosehip oil is approximately 4-6 months. So why does the rosehip oil you bought or displayed in drug store keeps longer? Most commercial manufacturers have added supercritical carbon dioxide or a substantial amount of synthetic (man-made) Vitamin E to as preservative, which explains why some rosehip oil are more "orangey" than others. As a result, the shelf life of the rosehip oil you are buying or browsing in stores has been extended to 2 years after production and bottling.

3. If you've managed to get a good quality of rosehip oil, it's going to be a keeper, simply because of its wondrous skin benefits. Rosehip is a powerful anti-oxidant that treats oily skin, sensitive skin, fine lines and is considered to be one of the best anti-wrinkle oils available in the marketplace today. It is an excellent source of omega 3 and 6, that are involved in cellular renewal, tissue regeneration and balancing skin with large pores.

4. The smell of rosehip oil is strong and unique - earthy if you ask me. It's pleasant or unpleasant depending on how you like it. Majority of the rosehip oil available commercially are deodorised or refined with chemical solvents.
 
5. One important thing all these big brands forgotten to tell you -you are NOT supposed to use rosehip oil continuously for more than 2 weeks, especially if you have dry or sensitive skin. The natural retinoid acid in rosehip oil can cause dryness, redness and flakiness!
 
Please use your own judgment when someone tells you an oil is 100% pure or there is no negative effect in it. Even your favourite pure essential oil can possess a certain level of toxicity if improperly blended or utilised. And if you are seriously concerned about purity, wouldn't you want to know where it is grown, how it is extracted or produced and what are you really getting?