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LAVENDER FOR HAIR GROWTH

12/11/2022

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​Boasting many uses and a heavenly scent, lavender essential oils are distilled directly from the lavender plant, resulting in a highly concentrated extract of lavender’s useful compounds that’s full of health and aromatherapy benefits.
 
For a more soothing scent and to complement to a more herbaceous oil blend, we use lavandula angustifolia, also known as fine or true lavender, where the oil is obtained from steam distillation of the flower buds. This produces a fruity and more floral lavender oil that's less camphorous, less grassy-herbal than lavender oils extracted from other parts of the plant.
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In the last 6 years, lavender oil has gained more attention and research interest for hair growth benefits. A 2016 study found that lavender oil applied to mice made them grow more hair and faster than normal. What's more encouraging? Lavender oil is also a DHT blocker and has done really well in comparison to Minoxidil. 
 
Want to get the very best of lavender’s hair growth and scalp benefits right at home? Simply massage diluted lavender oil onto your clean scalp in the evening, preferably after shower and before bed time. You can dilute lavender essential oil with a light, fast absorbing oil such as jojoba, rosehip or grapeseed (do not use coconut or sweet almond oil), and we recommend you add a couple drops of rosemary oil too! Let the oil sit on your scalp for 10 minutes and you can rinse it off or leave it in to enjoy the comforting scent of lavender as well as some scalp-healing effects.
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ART & SCIENCE OF MIXING ESSENTIAL OIL

7/3/2017

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There is a surge in the use and appreciation of essential oils these days. But mixing essential oils is not as easy as it seems. Oil blending is part art and part science. It is crucial to understand the following before you start blending:

1. Chemical properties – this determines the volatility, viscosity and toxicity of the essential oil.

2. Purpose of the blend – Essential oils work harder in a blend. When you mix essential oils correctly, you create a synergistic effect and boost the power of each oil within the blend.  

​3. Sequence – the order which the oil is added and blended also plays a factor in the resulting blend. When you change this sequence, it affects both the properties and fragrance of the resulting blend.

4. Percentage – While there are no rules how you can mix essential oils for home aromatherapy, it is not a simple, straightforward 1 + 1 = 2 equation when you apply it on skin care formulation or body treatment. ​
So perhaps now you can appreciate it is not as easy as it looks, and most businesses selling you essential oils are not equipped with fully qualified staff who understand the source and properties of the oil, nor are they trained in blending. This is why you should purchase oil blends that are professionally made or customised, especially when you are looking to heal the mind and body.

However, here are some general rules to consider when mixing your own essential oil blend.

(i) Lighter and smaller molecules produce thinner oils that are more aromatic. Heavier and larger molecules produce thicker oils that are less aromatic, and take the body a longer time to absorb. So when you blend lighter molecules with heavier molecules, their synergistic effect allows for the lighter molecules to last longer and the heavier molecules to absorb faster!
 
(ii) This is extremely important when blending natural fragrance and this concept has been used by the perfume industry for years. The heavier oils that extend the life of the more aromatic oils are called fixatives. Some of the best known and most popular fixatives are Ylang Ylang, Myrrh, Frankincense and Sandalwood.
 
(iii) The ratio of essential oil to carrier / base oil is not always 1:1 – it depends on the application purpose. If I make a dilution blend for facial application, I would use 15-20 drops of essential oil. For body, I would use 45-60 drops of essential oils to 100ml of base oil(s).
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​Remember, base ingredients such as oils and aloe vera gel should be of a good quality and if organic is available, even better. You don’t want to use an excellent grade of essential oil and mix them with a poor if not average quality of base product.

In the next blog post, I will share a lesser known method in oil blending – the classification method. But for now, I hope these tips help. Happy blending!
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FACE OIL - FAD OR HERE TO STAY?

2/3/2017

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Natural and organic skin care is in vogue. But are you aware that there are as many fads in beauty and health as there are in food.

Baby oil was once upon a time, the most natural and gentle oil – used for everything from baby massage to removing mascara and healing minor burns. Now that they found baby oil contains minerals and by-product of petrochemicals, using it is as reprehensible as smoking.

Vitamin E oil had a run as popular as sunflower oil was snapped up for cooking. Some consumers buy capsules from health food stores that are as high as 400iu and pierce them to apply the content directly on their faces, scars and wrinkles in a bid for miracle results. 
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​​In the late 80s, emu oil was highly sought after and demand is still going strong while the mish-mash Bio Oil that you can buy from Watsons and Guardian pharmacy has gained a cult following after a series of marketing campaigns. At the same time, some of us have been busy dousing everything in avocado and coconut oil.

What about now? Why are some of us still so insistent on applying oil on our face?

FACT - Pure plant oils are the most natural skin care vital for healthy skin cell function. Plant oils have smaller molecular structure than mineral oils and many are akin in design to sebum. And of course, they should be light and non-comedogenic so it does not leave a film on the skin. Often, women fear that oils may aggravate existing high levels of oils in the skin or contribute to impurities and clogged pores, but the opposite is true. Applying a good oil reduces moisture loss. This result in the normalisation of the skin’s sebum production and the skin will thereby be less oily.  
The traditional oils used in good cosmetics are wheat germ oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil and evening primrose oil. It is also not uncommon to see these oils supplanted by the newer, exotic oils such as argan, marula and camellia.

Argan oil is extremely popular at the moment. It closely resembles the lipids in human skin so they work naturally with the skin, not against it. Argan oil is obtained from the argan tree, and we suggest you buy from ethical sources such as those grown in the forest of Morocco under UNESCO protection.
I can’t stress enough that not all oils are created equal so beware of formulations that contain more silicone (dimethicone) and synthetic vitamin E than argan oil. Pure plant oils go rancid within 3-6 months in our tropical climate and can hardly be stored for more than a year, let alone 2 or 3 years including warehouse storage time. If you are buying a blend of oils, look out for the order of the ingredient list and check the texture to ensure you are getting what you are really looking and paying for.

DEBATE OVER OIL VS CREAM - The majority of water-based cream in the market are not effective at maintaining hydration and contain synthetic fats and emulsifiers that are graded at the same level as detergents. Bacteria also thrive in water so more preservatives are required to stabilise a water-based cream than oils.
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But sure, there are some cosmetic cream out there, some in trend, some not. My sensitive dehydrated skin loves rosehip, argan and sweet almond oil. When I need extra soothing relief, I blend in essential oils of neroli, frankincense and Damask rose. I know some ladies and customers who enjoy similar routine and supplement with a face cream on-and-off – but many others remain sceptical and continue piling chemical-loaded cream on the
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CHRISTMAS DIY GIFT - AROMATIC BODY SCRUB

22/11/2016

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Like your face, your body will appreciate an exfoliating treatment now and again. This recipe contains ingredients that are coarser than your face scrub because your body skin is thicker and can cope with a little more abrasion. A body scrub should never feel like sandpaper or Chinese “gua sha”. A luxurious homemade body scrub should contain lots of fresh, lovely ingredients to truly pamper your skin.
YOU WILL NEED :
- 6 tablespoon of coarse sea salt
*I personally prefer a finer grind of Epsom salt, which can be used to double up as a salt bath.
- 3 sprigs of fresh rosemary
- 1 teaspoon of zest
- 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
- 3-6 drops of lemon essential oil
- Juice of half a lemon
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​Grind / chop the rosemary leaves finely. Put them in a bowl with the sea salt and lemon zest, and mix them together well. Add the olive oil and lemon juice to make a paste. If it is too firm, you may add a little more olive oil. Finally add the lemon essential oil (strength of scent to your preference) and give them a final, thorough mix. Dispense in little 100g glass jars and label or decorate accordingly.

This homemade scrub smells gorgeous, nothing quite like what you buy from the retail stores. It is best used in the shower – dampen your skin and gently massage the scrub in. Rinse off under the shower.
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CHRISTMAS DIY - MAKING POTPOURRI

17/11/2016

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Its 5 weeks to Christmas and we know some of you ladies enjoy DIY gifts. So, we are going to post 1 recipe every week leading up to the big weekend and hopefully you will find something inspiring or else - you know where to find us every Saturday at Chijmes.

Let’s start with Potpourri this week. It’s simple to put together and last for quite a long time. Nope, this is nothing like the potpourri you buy from the stores – bags of dried out bits, unrecognisable wood shavings, leaves and other “botanicals” that the labels claim will transport us to Christmas, a garden party or even an exotic paradise - all at once!

Now, flowers have long been used to scent the home and it was during the 18th century that the potpourri was first created. Potpourri was originally a culinary term meaning a pot of mixed vegetables but it got hijacked and became a pot of fresh mixed fragrance fowers, herbs and spices.
Unlike modern versions, a traditional potpourri always contains roses. A fixative is required to prolong the fragrance and essential oil (please do not use fragrant oil) is used to intensify the scent. The easiest potpourri is a dry mix. Here’s a classic recipe and you will need the following:
 
2 to 3 teaspoons of spice(s) of your choice
25g orris root powder (from the Iris flower)
6 drops of essential oil
1 kg of fresh flower petals of your choice
25g herbs / leaves (sage and dried lavender are very nice!)
1 teaspoon of citrus peel such as grated orange / lemon rind (optional)


(i) To make the potpourri, mix the spices, orris powder and essential oil first. When you add essential oil, make sure to rub the mixture between your fingers and thumb to make sure the oil is evenly distributed.

(ii) In a separate bowl, combine the rest of the ingredients. Add the aromatic spice mixture and mix thoroughly. Store this mixture in airtight container and keep it in a cool, dark cupboard for at least 2-3 weeks. Shake the container occasionally to redistribute the ingredients. After “maturing”, put the potpourri in a decorative bowl or use it to fill organza bags as gifts.
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DIY HAIR TREATMENT WITH PURE ARGAN OIL

14/10/2016

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​This "reversal" oil application method is very similar to an old VO5 hot oil treatment, but far more organic and moisturising. But instead of applying argan oil on dry hair in the morning or damp hair after washing - you simply coat your hair with warm, activated argan oil before shampooing. This locks in all the vitamin A, E and fatty acids, and produces silky soft hair with considerably less frizz that lasts for 2-3 days (assuming the torpid weather cooperates).​​​


​Directions:

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1. Warm 5-10ml of argan oil (depending on hair length)  in a cup of hot water (just off the boil) for 5 minutes. *Do not microwave the oil lest it loses its desirable nutrients.
 
2. Prior to application, test the oil on your hand to prevent burning yourself.
 
3. Section your hair to ensure even distribution. Apply warm activated argan oil directly on your hair strands, avoiding the scalp and comb through.
 
4. Leave the argan oil on your hair for 10-15 minutes, then shampoo your hair as normal and condition it lightly.
 
After drying, your hair should be noticeably softer and flowy. You should also experience less breakage and even have a more prominent sheen. Depending on how bad your split ends are, they are likely to look smoother and less noticeable for a day or two.
 
In the meantime, enjoy your bouncy, healthier hair!
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WHAT'S WRONG WITH DEET & WHY MASS MARKET CITRONELLA DOESN'T WORK

8/9/2016

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​The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) has confirmed that essential oil of lemon eucalyptus (botanical name : eucalyptus citriodora) is as effective as DEET, a highly toxic and controversial chemical found commonly in insect repellents and pesticides sold worldwide.
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"Lemon eucalyptus oil [active ingredient: p-menthane 3,8-diol (PMD)],
​a plant- based repellent, is also registered with EPA. In two recent scientific publications, when lemon eucalyptus eucalyptus was tested against mosquitoes found in the U.S, it provided protection similar to repellents with low concentrations of DEET".
Those of you who are not familiar with the controversy - DEET is a chemical developed in 1944 by the U.S department of agriculture for use as a pesticide on farms, before it was used by the military in the Vietnam war and subsequently civilians. The prevailing theory suggests the DEET "blinds" the senses of insects so that the feeding instinct is not triggered by human beings who produce these chemicals.
 
DEET is sold in sprays and lotions with concentrations up to 100 percent! It is the ingredient that stains your clothing and leaves a yellow film on your skin (in some cases). While DEET is generally deemed safe to use, at higher concentration, DEET becomes unsafe for children, pregnant ladies and those with sensitive skin and respiratory problems. DEET should not be inhaled and even more importantly, DEET should not be applied more than once a day.
 
The most serious concerns with DEET are neurological issues. A Duke University research found that lab animals exposed to the equivalent doses of DEET exposed to human, performed far worse than untreated animals. Children with DEET toxicity reported lethargy, headaches, tremors, involuntary movements and convulsions.
 
Before you reach out for that next bottle of DEET spray or lotion, consider the following natural essential oils / options:
  •  Lemon eucalyptus
  • Rose geranium
  • Peppermint
  • Rosemary
  • Cloves
  • Sage
  • Cinnamon

​Why I do not recommend Citronella?

​First of all, citronella is NOT lemongrass. Citronella is an essential oil extracted from several different species of Cymbopogon (lemongrass family). Citronella also refers to a chemical effect between different essential oils - for example if you mix lavender with lemon or bergamot, you get citronella.
 
Although natural, citronella oil needs to be reapplied every 30-60 minutes to be continuously effective. Perhaps the reason citronella does not work for most of us lies in its chemical composition. The 3 primary components of Citronella is citronellol, citronellal, and geraniol. Researchers have found that in most citronella sold in the marketplace, there is only about 10% citronellol and 35% geraniol. In fact, most citronella oil were found to be 95% identical to commercial rose geranium. So go figure!
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DEMYSTIFYING SKIN CARE BUZZWORDS

22/8/2016

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Beauty companies are labeling products in new creative ways that's leading consumers to believe that products are magic bullets, skin loving, health giving and filled with fantastic ingredients. But often it can mean the complete opposite - more preservatives, more artificial fragrance, more skin sensitivities.
 
Here I have compiled a short list of kin care buzzwords that are out there in the marketplace today. I hope this will help demystify the narrative around natural and organic skin care packaging.

1. NON-GMO

​GMO IS NOT A FAD. Consumers are demanding greater transparency. They want to know what is in what they eat and use - how it is grown and processed. There is a growing awareness and concern about genetically modified organisms and this remains an important issue to consider for anyone who is paying attention to what they buy. Genetic is not a term consumers want to see connected to what they eat, apply and use. There is an rising trend of products being labeled GMO-free or non-GMO, assuming manufacturers and merchants have full knowledge of origins. While genetically modified fresh products are not allowed for sale in Singapore, GM modified plants are still being used in processed food, skin care and scented candles.

2. "FREE FROM"

"Free from" is a term used to represent products that have been formulated to exclude one or more ingredients beyond carcinogens. These skin care products typically exclude sodium lauryl sulfate and parabens, but are not really chemical or allergens free. "Free from" is a new way of life for many people with severe skin allergies and fragrance sensitivities, and should not be seen as a whim. The growing popularity of plant based skin and hair care has increased consumer awareness, market demand and ironically produced more irresponsible labeling and claims. There remains questions about quality, purity and the botanical profiles of products claiming to be natural one way or another.

3. SUSTAINABLE

​One of the most overly abused words by big brands and local crafters. In the production of food, plants and even skin care products, sustainability means using techniques that protect the environment, public health, human communities and animal welfare. It's a method of production that generates abundance while ensuring the same process can be repeated efficiently and the same products can be enjoyed continuously and affordably! 

4. ANTIOXIDANTS

These are chemicals which occur naturally in plants that may prevent or slow down cell damage and oxidative stress. Besides the highly famed rosehip oil, beauty companies often harness antioxidants from green tea, red wine, pomegranates, olives and mushroom. Theoretically, antioxidants are wonderful and there is no harm using them. But after application, a very different biological process occurs when skin is exposed to the sun. So unless the product is stored in an aluminium canister or a tinted glass container, there is also no guarantee the antioxidants you've paid big bucks for are not breaking down rapidly upon exposure to light. 
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5. NATURAL

There is no regulation on the use of this term worldwide. A product marketed as natural can contain palm oil, colourants, by-products of petroleum, synthetic fragrance, preservatives and other chemicals used largely for texture enhancement. Stroll down the beauty aisles and you will find rows and rows of natural products with an ingredient list longer than a complicated rice dumpling recipe, and I bet your grandmother can't recognise most of them either.

6. ORGANIC

There is a big difference between "made with organic" and "certified organic". To be certified organic means to grow or manufacture a product free from synthetic pesticides, herbicides, hormones and antibiotics. Plants and seeds must be non-GM and the process must be water efficient and biodiversity friendly. So consider this - organic certification (much like ISO standard) is an expensive, structured and time consuming exercise, so unless the manufacturer is of a reasonable scale, a small business typically cannot afford to be certified organic. It is totally legit to make products with organic ingredients from suppliers who are certified organic. Even though there is no formal rule stopping 3rd parties from using a supplier or distributor's certification (I've seen it on tea bags and rosehip oil), it is still in your best interest to confirm that products are truly certified organic by look out for the certification symbol and institute.
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PROBING THE TOP 3 SKIN HEALTH ENEMIES

18/8/2016

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SKIN HEALTH ENEMY (1) - PARABENS

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Parabens are preservatives used for production stabilisation and to prevent bacterial growth. Parabens can be absorbed through the skin and they imitate estrogens in the body to increase it's production in your body.
 
Too much estrogen in a woman's body raise risk of breast cancer. Estrogen is a female hormone known to cause both normal and cancerous breast cells to grow and divide. Even "if" parabens are weak estrogens, you should not be looking at one chemical in isolation. Furthermore, most of you are not using just 1 or 2 items with parabens, but an entire bathroom of products. Numerous university studies in the UK and US have linked parabens to breast cancer, increased body weight in the mid-section, thigh fats and accelerated aging.
 
Whatever you buy, you should consider going paraben-free, wherever possible. Go through ingredient list in small print looking out for names that end in 'paraben'  like propylparaben, isopropyl-, butyl, and isobutylparaben helps though not all parabens have '-ben' or "yl" in their name, benzoic acid is an example.
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SKIN HEALTH ENEMY (2) - NANOPARTICLES

The rapidly growing field of nanotechnology and its widespread use in cosmetics is a major concern for consumers. Nanoparticles may sure sound like science, but they are very bad for your skin. Nanoparticles cause a normal skin cell growth to break down, resulting in pre-mature wrinkles and deepening of the wrinkles you already have.
 
What's worse, nano's are often found in anti-aging skin care products and majority of sunscreens out in the market. Read labels with care and exercise discretion. There is currently a voluntary ban on the use of nano's in some parts of US, Europe and New Zealand.
 
The irony? Commercial manufacturers know that when ingredients in sunscreens and anti-aging products are converted into nanoparticles, the end-product usually display unique properties that can benefit the skin in ways that larger sized particles cannot. This is also one of the major reasons a total ban is not possible or favourable, and despite health hazards, consumers are unwilling to give up their favourite sunscreen loaded with titanium dioxide.

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SKIN HEALTH ENEMY (3) - SYNTHETIC FRAGRANCE
 
Fragrance or Parfum might sound harmless, but what they do are anything but that. Most products labeled fragrance-free do contain a small amount of fragrance - otherwise all you will smell are the icky chemicals, oils and fats used in your lotion and cream.
 
All synthetic fragrances contain Phthalates, a group of endocrine-disrupting chemical toxins. Unfortunately, phthalates have been linked to depression, sleep disorder, weight gain, infertility, cancer and altered immune system. Even food contain phthalates! I can't stress this enough - you are BOTH what you eat and use on your skin and body. The slightest disturbance to your natural hormonal balance affects your mood, sleep, weight, appearance, fertility, energy and anxiety levels. Would you not agree that's a lot at stake?!
 
If you must use a product with fragrance or parfum, make sure that the label states phthalate-free fragrance. That is the only way you can be sure that the synthetic fragrances in your body and skin care products are safer for use. 

And remember - fragrance oil, concentrate and extracts are not natural or pure essential oil, even though merchants claim they are botanical or naturally derived. Synthetic fragrance and perfume are created in a laboratory, not grown on farms. 

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ROSE OIL - SKIN HEALTH BENEFITS 

28/7/2016

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Used by the Europeans to treat everything from skin irritations to depression, rose oil is making a comeback. In this beauty age of serums, essence and botanical extracts, there is something relaxing and refreshing about the simplicity of rose.
  
The beauty market is currently saturated with tons of products, most making exaggerated claims. Consumers are getting more informed and health conscious of what they buy and use, so it's no surprise they are starting to shun mass produced skincare products and going back to old fashioned, trusted ingredients that have proven to work.
 
Rose oil is a highly prized ingredient used in cosmetics and skincare, much for its scent and beauty benefits. Rose oil is usually extracted from 2 types of rose - (i) Rosa Damascena otherwise known as Damask Rose, and (ii) Rosa Centifolia. which is sweeter smelling and referred to as cabbage or Moroccan rose. What about Rose Otto? Otto is also commonly used in skincare products and obtained through steam distillation, while Absolute involves a more complicated extraction process and is preferred by perfumers. Regardless of extraction method, rose oil is extremely delicate and expensive. It takes 700 kg of rose petals to produce 1 kg of rose absolute, and because of its potency, only a couple of drops is required for maximum effect.
 
Truly versatile, rose oil retains moisture and boost radiance, which is one of the main reasons why it is often used for all skin types. It is especially popular for sensitive/rosacea skin though, because of its astringent effects on the capillaries to reduce redness.
 
And rose water, as most of you know or are are using by now, is a byproduct of the distillation process of rose oil and contain antiseptic and anti-inflammatory qualities. It is best used without alcohol, preservatives or additives as a skin toner / facial mist or mixed in cleanser and mask for soothing and restorative effects.  
 
Still unsure? One of rose oil’s key ingredients - Farnesol, contains a biological agent that stops bacteria growth and reproduction. In other words, rose oil will also inhibit acne. And for those of you blessed with good skin, spritz on some rose water and you will come up smelling of roses.
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​Browse our full range of Damask Rose face care products (chemical-free)  
  • Gentle Facial Cleanser $25
  • Organic Rose Water $15
  • Purifying Cream Mask (clay) $38
  • Damask Rose Facial Treatment Oil $30
  • Hydrating Face Cream $40
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    This blog is intended to provide wholesome information on natural fragrance, botanical skin care and an organic lifestyle  All reasonable care has been taken in the content provided. Please use all guidance + recommendation with caution and not as a guide to self-diagnosis and treatment. We disclaim all responsibility for any liability, personal risk and damage incurred directly or indirectly as a consequence of the use/application of any of the products and content listed.

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